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BRIGHT & HITCHCOCKS, Geelong, Victoria (retailer)Day dress (1865-1870) silk, glass, baleen(a) 38.5 cm (centre back) 26.5 cm (waist, flat) (bodice) (b) 188.0 cm (centre back) 27.0 cm (waist, flat) (skirt) (c) 46.0 x 62.0 cm (sash)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneGift of Miss Bell, 1973

200 YEARS OF AUSTRALIAN FASHION

5/3/2016-31/7/2016  
 
The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia
Exhibition fees apply
 
The first major survey of Australian fashion will open at the National Gallery of Victoria in March 2016.  The exhibition will present more than 120 works from over 90 designers and celebrate Australia’s unique voice in the fashion industry.
 

Posted 22 February 2016

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Alongside works by contemporary designers, such as Akira, Richard Nylon, Ellery and Toni Maticevski, the exhibition will showcase standout designs from the last 200 years including Australia’s earliest known surviving dress (c1805), a glamorous 1950s blue feathered ball gown by Collins Street salon La Petite (pictured), and a dress from Collette Dinnigan’s ground-breaking 1995 Paris runway show, where she became the first Australian designer invited to show on-schedule at Paris Fashion Week.

 LA PETITE, Melbourne (fashion house); Pat RODGERS (designer)Evening dress (c. 1958) silk, cotton, tulle, glass (beads), plastic (sequins), metal137.5 cm (centre back) 30.0 cm (waist, flat)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneGift of Mr J. O. Wicking, 19991999.447

G. H. V. THOMAS, Melbourne (fashion house); G. H. V. THOMAS (ladies tailor)Riding habit 1909-1912 (detail)wool, silk, cotton, plastic (buttons)(a) 81.3 cm (centre back) 58.0 cm (sleeve length) (jacket) (b) 54.5 cm (centre back) 81.5 cm (sleeve length) (blouse) (c) 114.0 cm (centre back) 30.0 cm (waist, flat) (skirt)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneGift of Miss Irene Mitchell, 1975D52.a-c-1975

THE COLOSSEUM, Prahan, Melbourne (manufacturer and retailer)Bodice (c. 1905) silk, cotton, paste pearls, baleen43.0 cm (centre back)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneGift of Miss Irene Mitchell, 1975D17-1975

E. WEBB & CO., Bathurst, New South Wales (manufacturer)Riding habit (c. 1898) wool, cotton, silk(a) 61.0 cm (centre back) 60.0 cm (sleeve length) (jacket) (b) 113.0 cm (centre back) 33.0 cm (waist, flat) (skirt) (c) 86.0 cm (outer leg) 32.0 cm (waist, flat) (breeches)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneThe Schofield Collection. Purchased with the assistance of a special grant from the Government of Victoria, 1974D191.a-c-1974

SIRENS (fashion house); Kara BAKER (designer)Dress 1984 {The Samoan Sirens Collection} cotton, metal, acetate116.5 cm (centre back) 32.0 cm (waist, flat)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased 20082008.573

‘Australian fashion design has been informed by its geography, resources, migration and its response to international trends,’ said Tony Ellwood, Director, NGV. ‘The NGV is proud to showcase the ways in which designers have responded to these conditions with ingenuity, humour and irony in dialogue with the wider world.’
 
A highlight is a newly commissioned work by Dion Lee that will signpost the future of Australian fashion and demonstrate the designer’s forward-thinking approach and innovative design practice. The exhibition will also feature a show-stopping catwalk of garments that celebrate the vibrant output of the Fashion Design Council (FDC), which was established in 1983 to nurture independent Australian fashion design.  Well-known designers associated with this movement include Jenny Bannister, Sara Thorn and Kara Baker.

Iconic and milestone moments of Australian fashion history will be displayed from early dressmakers and tailors who adapted European fashions to the Australian lifestyle, class system and climate during the nineteenth century. The exhibition will also focus on the output of the nation’s first department stores, such as Buckley & Nunn, David Jones, Farmer and Co. and Bright & Hitchcock’s, which were critical in disseminating fashionable dress during this time.

UNKNOWN, Australia (maker)Dress (c. 1855) cotton, silk, metal, mother-of-pearl, baleen152.0 cm (centre back) 34.5 cm (waist, flat)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneGift of Mrs Michael Parker, 1983CT22-1983

MISS SCOTT, Brisbane (dressmaker)Afternoon dress (c. 1878) silk, cotton, metal, baleen188.0 (centre back) 27.0 cm (waist, flat)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneGift of Mr J. D. Oswald, 1970D55-1970

BUCKLEY & NUNN LTD, Melbourne (manufacturer and retailer)Evening dress (c. 1907) silk, cotton, metal, glass (beads), gelatine (sequins), baleen(a) 27.5 cm (centre back) 41.0 cm (waist, flat) (bodice) (b) 139.0 cm (centre back) 38.5 cm (waist, flat) (skirt)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneGift of Miss L. Kelly, 1970D14.a-b-1970

The colour and experimentation of the 60’s will be celebrated through a focused display featuring mini-dresses, designed by Prue Acton, who was the first female Australian designer to show in New York. Remarkable knit wear from Jenny Kee’s Flamingo Park boutique of the 1970s will have a dedicated display, illuminating the designer’s landmark range of Australiana-inspired garments.

FLAMINGO PARK, Sydney (fashion house); Jenny KEE (designer); Jan AYRES (knitter)Snake goddess 1980 cotton75.0 cm (centre back) 21.0 cm (sleeve length)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased, Victorian Foundation for Living Australian Artists, 20102010.307

FLAMINGO PARK, Sydney (fashion house); Jenny KEE (designer); Jan AYRES (knitter)Dress (1979) wool, synthetic yarn103.5 cm (centre back) 53.0 cm (waist, flat)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePuchased NGV Foundation, 20122012.221

CHRISTOPHER GRAF, Melbourne (fashion house); Christopher GRAF (designer); PHILLIP RHODES, Melbourne (millinery house); Phillip RHODES (milliner)Requiem outfit 1994 {spring} cotton, polyester, acetate, cotton (velvet), velcro, metal, spartre, silk, synthetic fabric(a) 57.5 cm (centre back) 59.5 cm (sleeve length) (jacket) (b) 38.5 cm (centre back) 34.0 cm (waist, flat) (skirt) (c) 216.0 cm (outer circumference) 29.0 cm (height) 69.0 cm (width) (hat)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased, Victorian Foundation for Living Australian Artists, 20102010.293.a-c

 
FLAMINGO PARK, Sydney (fashion house); Linda JACKSON (designer)Harem outfit 1975 silk130.5 cm (centre back) 29.0 cm (waist, flat) 62.0 cm (inner leg) (jumpsuit) 3.0 x 98.0 cm (neckties) 5.0 x 104.0 cm (ties)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased NGV Foundation, 20142014.679© Linda Jackson/Licensed by VISCOPY, Sydney

ROMANCE WAS BORN, Sydney (fashion house); Anna PLUNKETT (designer); Luke SALES (designer)Rainbow tartan feather suit 2015 {spring, Coo-ee couture collection} silk, sequins, feathers (ostrich)(a) 170.0 cm (centre back 72.5 cm (sleeve length)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased, NGV Supporters of Fashion and Textiles, 20152015.492.a-b

The richness of contemporary fashion will also be on show in the work of Australian designers MaterialByProduct, Romance Was Born, Di$count Universe, Pageant, PAM, Alpha60, Karla Spetic, Lui Hon and Strateas Carlucci.

Pageant Amanda Cumming & Kate Reynolds Photographer: Tom Ross

 Linda Jackson and Jenny Kee wearing Linda Jackson’s Tutti Frutti dress in 1975
Photographer: Ann Noon

Toni Maticevski Photographer - Caroline McCredie.

The NGV has collected fashion and textiles for more than 120 years and boasts an outstanding collection of incredible breadth, quality and craftsmanship. Since the 1970s the NGV has organised close to 50 fashion and textile exhibitions, with 200 Years of Australian Fashion the largest survey of Australian fashion to date.

PLAIN JANE, Melbourne (fashion house); Gavin BROWN (designer)Indian snakes and ladders outfit 1985 screenprinted cotton, metal, plastic, wood(a) 109.0 cm (centre back) 61.0 cm (sleeve length) (frock shirt) (b) 114.0 cm (outer leg) 41.0 cm (waist, flat) (pants) (c) 52.0 x 20.5 x 4.5 cm (necklace)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased, NGV Foundation, 20092009.15.a-c

JENNY BANNISTER, Melbourne (fashion house); Jenny BANNISTER (designer)Je suis mod deluxe 1980 plastic, cotton, metal, found objects81.0 cm (centre back) 44.0 cm (waist, flat)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneGift of the artist, 19981998.192

DESBINA COLLINS, Melbourne (fashion house); Desbina COLLINS (designer)Outfit (1984) silk (taffeta), nylon (tulle)(a) 56.5 cm (centre back) 44.0 cm (sleeve length) (jacket) (b) 83.5 cm (centre back) 32.5 cm (waist, flat) (skirt) (c) 19.0 x 78.0 cm irreg. (cummerbund) (d) 31.0 x 139.0 cm (scarf)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePuchased NGV Foundation, 20122012.220.a-d

STUDIBAKER HAWK, Sydney (manufacturer); Wendy ARNOLD (designer); Janelle MILES (designer)Medusa 1986 {summer collection} (detail)satin, chiffon, cotton, metal, plastic, glass, ink134.0 cm (centre back) 61.0 cm (waist, flat)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneGift of David and Janelle Miles Studibaker, 20032003.477

The NGV will present 200 Years of Australian Fashion as part of the Cultural Program of the Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival, which celebrates its 20th Festival in 2016.
 
‘The Festival is proud to feature 200 Years of Australian Fashion as part of our Cultural Program. This NGV exhibition reaffirms the influence Australian designers have and celebrates our nation’s creative achievements over 200 years,’ said Virgin Australia Melbourne Fashion Festival CEO Graeme Lewsey.

ELLERY, Sydney (fashion house)est. 2007Kym ELLERY (designer)born Australia 1983Protégé wide sleeve top, Vienna sleeveless shirt and radical nude boot leg pant 2015 autumn-winterelastomric cotton linen wool polymide blend, cotton, synthetic fabric(a) 60.0 cm (centre back), 65.0 cm (sleeve length) (top) (b) 86.5 cm (centre back), 48.0 cm (waist, flat) (shirt) (c) 122.5 cm (centre back), 39.5 cm (waist flat) (pant)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased, Victorian Foundation for Living Australian Artists, 2015

ELLERY, Sydney (fashion house)est. 2007Kym ELLERY (designer)born Australia 1983Protégé wide sleeve top, Vienna sleeveless shirt and radical nude boot leg pant 2015 autumn-winterelastomric cotton linen wool polymide blend, cotton, synthetic fabric(a) 60.0 cm (centre back), 65.0 cm (sleeve length) (top) (b) 86.5 cm (centre back), 48.0 cm (waist, flat) (shirt) (c) 122.5 cm (centre back), 39.5 cm (waist flat) (pant)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased, Victorian Foundation for Living Australian Artists, 2015

ALPHA 60, Melbourne (fashion house)est. 2005Georgie CLEARY (designer)born Australia 1976Alex CLEARY (designer)born Australia 1974Jenna top and darcy skirt 2016 spring–summer, Broken Flowers collection 2016polyester, cotton, metal (a) 37.5 cm (centre back), 133.0 cm (width) (top)(b) 78.9 cm (centre back), 34.0 cm (waist, flat) (skirt)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased, Victorian Foundation for Living Australian Artists, 2016

PUBLIC PROGRAMS
Symposium: What is Australian Fashion?
Sat 5 March
Beyond the clichés, what is Australian fashion? If such an identity exists, what separates Australian designers and dress from the rest of the world? Hear from leading Australian fashion designers, curators and commentators as they share current issues and developments in the market place and global contexts. 
Cost ticketed. See ngv.vic.gov.au for details and booking
Venue Theatre, NGV Australia

See NEWS in Textile is more!

DONNA-MAY BOLINGER, Sydney (shoemaker); Donna-May BOLINGER (designer)Midnight boots 2003 {spring-summer, Objet trouvé collection} leather, metal, cotton(a-b) 34.3 x 8.3 x 23.8 cm (each) (boots) (c-d) 31.0 x 16.9 x 5.5 cm (each) (leggings) National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased, 20032003.14.a-d

UNKNOWNFan (c. 1880) ivory, cockatoo feathers, silk, metal32.0 x 43.0 cm irreg. (open) 21.0 x 3.0 cm irreg. (cord and tassel)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbourneGift of Mr James Reid, 1964748A-D5

Design Talks
Sat 5 & Sun 6 March
Celebrate the opening weekend of 200 years of Australian Fashion with a range of talks and informal conversations providing insights into Australian fashion history and design today.
Cost exhibition entry. See ngv.vic.gov.au for details and booking
Venue exhibition space, NGV Australia

LIMITED EDITION EXHIBITION CATALOGUE
The NGV will produce the 200 Years of Australian Fashion exhibition catalogue in a limited edition.
In an edition of 25, the soft cover catalogue will be presented in cloth bound box and will include a digitally printed silk scarf by Australian fashion designer Dion Lee.
Designed and made exclusively for the limited edition catalogue, the scarf design will reference Dion Lee’s commission for the NGV’s exhibition and collection. The catalogue and scarf edition will feature a signed and numbered certificate by Dion Lee.
Price upon request.
 
Contributing Writers
Dr Nadia Buick is a fashion curator and author based in Brisbane. She is Co-Director of The Fashion Archives.
Associate Professor Margaret Maynard is an Honorary Consultant, in the School of
Communication and the Arts, The University of Queensland.
Paola Di Trocchio, Curator, Fashion and Textiles.
Danielle Whitfield, Curator, Fashion and Textiles.

See the Agenda>

THE IAN POTTER CENTRE: NGV AUSTRALIA
Federation Square
Flinders St & Russell St
Melbourne VIC 3000, Australia
+61 3 8662 1543
ngv.vic.gov.au

SIMON O'MALLON, Adelaide (manufacturer); Simon O'MALLONMilano 1997 leather, resin, cotton(a-b) 10.0 x 31.0 x 11.0 cm (each)National Gallery of Victoria, MelbournePurchased, 19981998.107.a-b© Simon O'Mallon/Licensed by VISCOPY, Australia

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