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Comme des Garçons, dress, spring-summer 2015
© Jean Tholance, Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, collection Mode et Textile

FASHION FORWARD, TROIS SIÈCLES DE MODE (1715-2016)

7/4/2016-14/8/2016
 
The Arts Décoratifs fashion collection now comprises more than 150,000 works, ranging from ancient textiles to haute couture creations and emblematic silhouettes of ready-to-wear fashion, but also including accessories, major collections of drawings and photographs, and the archives of iconic creators such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet and Cristobal Balenciaga. Now France’s foremost national collection, it is the result of the amalgamation of two admirable collections, that of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs since its creation in 1864, and that of the Union Française des Arts du Costume (UFAC), founded in 1948 and currently presided by Pierre Bergé, of which the Musée des Arts Décoratifs is the proud custodian.
 

Posted 4 April 2016

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7/4/2016-14/8/2016
 
The Arts Décoratifs fashion collection now comprises more than 150,000 works, ranging from ancient textiles to haute couture creations and emblematic silhouettes of ready-to-wear fashion, but also including accessories, major collections of drawings and photographs, and the archives of iconic creators such as Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet and Cristobal Balenciaga. Now France’s foremost national collection, it is the result of the amalgamation of two admirable collections, that of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs since its creation in 1864, and that of the Union Française des Arts du Costume (UFAC), founded in 1948 and currently presided by Pierre Bergé, of which the Musée des Arts Décoratifs is the proud custodian.
 

Hussein Chalayan, dress, spring-summer 2000, silk faille, cotton linen and synthetic tulle © Jean Tholance, Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, collection Mode et Textile

The three hundred pieces, selected from a collection constantly enriched by donations and acquisitions, take us on a journey through time, highlighting the key moments in fashion history from the very late 17th century to the most contemporary creation. Freeing itself from the dictates of the conservation of works and the stringent conditions of their display, the exhibition is conceived as an ideal museum of fashion, featuring the finest examples of three centuries of creation habitually illustrated in reference books. It also provides a fascinating new insight into fashion’s evolution via its designers, clients and periods, because now more than ever at Les Arts Décoratifs, fashion is treated as an artistic field that has wide-ranging echoes in the museum’s other collections. Fashion is a history of evolving techniques, materials and designs but also a history of changing times and attitudes, a reflection of the art of living.
Fashion is even more fascinating when it is not self-generating but dialogues with the arts of its time, as did great figures of Couture such as Charles-Frederick Worth, Jacques Doucet, Paul Poiret, Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet, Gabrielle Chanel,
Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent.

Two-piece gown, 1868-1872, cotton organdy © Jean Tholance, Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, collection UFAC

Ensemble de voyage, Mme Siebenmann, Vers 1898, tartan, taffetas et faille de soie,
coll. ufac, don mlle magniol, 1955, Inv. uf 55-54-1 a-d

Robe de jour, Mme Bombes, Vers 1885, Gros de tours et percale de coton imprimé à la planche d’un motif cachemire,
coll. mmt, achat, 1995, Inv. 995.85.1.1-2

Mariano Fortuny, robe du soir Delphos, 1910-1915, satin de soie plissé,
perles en verre de Murano, Collection UFAC

Dress, 1795-1800, cotton muslin © Jean Tholance, Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, collection UFAC

In a completely novel manner, the exhibition recreates each of these “fashion moments” in its human, artistic and social context, not didactically but via ellipses illustrating fashion’s constant elective affinities with the decorative arts. Eighteenth-century wood paneling, scenic wallpapers by Zuber, Paul Iribe’s drawings for the “Robes de Paul Poiret”, and the straw marquetry doors created by Jean-Michel Frank for the writer François Mauriac, provide perfect settings for fashion’s stylistic expressions and the metamorphoses of the body and style from the 18th century. The exhibition culminates in the effervescence and singular eclecticism of the global contemporary fashion scene, in which the names of the most original creators are now associated with the most ancient fashion houses.

Elsa Schiaparelli, manteau du soir, Haute couture, hiver 1938-1939, drap de laine, velours de soie, broderies, métal, porcelaine, résine,
coll. ufac, don de Patricia lopez-Willshaw, 1966, Inv. uf 66-38-6

Monkey’s suit, 1730-1750, silk taffeta © Jean Tholance, Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, collection Mode et Textile

Christian Lacroix, robe du soir Mademoiselle Hortensia, Haute couture, automne-hiver  1992-1993, modèle 63, damas liséré, nœud en faille, volant en taffetas plissé,
coll. mmt, don Christian Lacroix, 2009, Inv. 2009.66.1

Because the entire history of fashion is also a history of the body and style, the exhibition’s artistic direction was entrusted to the British dancer and choreographer Christopher Wheeldon, formerly one of the stars of the New York City Ballet and winner of a Tony award for his stage adaptation of An American in Paris in 2014, based on the film by Vicente Minelli. In collaboration with the scenographer Jérôme Kaplan and assisted by Isabelle Vartan, Christopher Wheeldon has succeeded in giving the collection a sensual, poetic dimension, breathing new life into these illustrious creations by transforming every stage of the exhibition into a world in itself.

ClÇo de M, Çrode Reutlinger

Emilio Pucci, ensemble, haute couture, printemps-été 1967, cape en twill de soie imprimé du motif « Vivara » par stamperia Tessuti Italiana di Luisago, Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris, collection Mode et Textile

John Galliano pour Christian Dior, ensemble du soir Stourhead, Haute couture, printemps-été 1998. modèle 14, manteau molletonné en façonné de soie broché doré 
et peint à la main robe à traîne en lamé argenté vieilli et gaufré, Bretelles en mousseline de soie brodée de fils métalliques argentés et strass,
coll. mmt, don christian dior, 2005, Inv.  2005.159.1

Prada, Robe, Prêt-à-porter, automne-hiver 2007-2008, Façonné de laine et de soie cloqué, broderie de plumes de coq et de film plastique,
Coll. MMT, don Prada, 2011, Inv. 2011.140.1

Each of these moments is enhanced by a unique collaboration with the dancers of the Opéra de Paris, in which a choreography gracefully casts new light on a silhouette, posture or attitude characteristic of this social and artistic evolution of the body.
 
The Musée des Arts Décoratif s is celebrating the thirtieth anniversary of its fashion collection from April 7 to August 14, 2016. In doing so we are responding to our public ’s strongly expressed desire to at last be shown an all-embracing panorama of fashion history over several centuries. It will also be an unique opportunity to showcase the jewels and highlight the particularities of a national fa shion and textiles collection curat ed in full dialogue with the other departments of a museum dedicat ed to all the decorative arts. The “Fashion Forward, Three Centuries of Fashion (1715- 2016)” exhibition will bring tog ether 300 items of men’s, women’s and children’s fa shion from the 18th century to today, selected from the museum’s collections to provide a novel chronological overview.
 
General curator:
> Pamela GOLBIN, Chief Curator of Fashion and Textiles, 1940 to the Present
Associate curators:
> Denis BRUNA, curator, previous to the 19th century Fashion and Textile
collections
> Marie-Sophie Carron de la Carrière, Curator in chief,
Fashion and Textiles, 1800-1939
> with the cooperation of curators from the musée des Arts décoratifs
Artistic director:
> Christopher Wheeldon
Scenography:
> Jérôme Kaplan, assisted by Isabelle Vartan
Creative director:
> Marc Ascoli
 
H&M is the exclusive sponsor of this exhibition

Paul Poiret, Robe du soir Joséphine, 1907, Satin de soie, filet de soie, galon,
Coll. Ufac, don Marcel Piccioni, 1970, Inv. UF 70-38-10

Agenda>


THE ARTS DÉCORATIFS MUSEUMS
107 rue de Rivoli
75001 Paris, France
+33 (0)1-44 55 57 50
WWW.LESARTSDECORATIFS.FR
 

Paul Poiret, Robe du soir Joséphine, 1907, Satin de soie, filet de soie, galon,
Coll. Ufac, don Marcel Piccioni, 1970, Inv. UF 70-38-10

Alber Elbaz pour Lanvin, ensemble Prêt-à-porter,  printemps-été 2003, tulle brodé de strass et mousseline de soie,
coll. mmt, don lanvin, 2006, Inv.  2006.132.24

Karl Lagerfeld pour Chloé, robe longue, commande spéciale, 1971, crêpe de soie de Bini peint par Nicole Lefort d’après Gustav Klimt,
coll. mmt, don régine, 1988, Inv.  988.1029

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