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160 pages
20 x 28 cm
approx. 120 ills. in colour
Softcover
English / German
ISBN: 978-3-89790-480-4
28.00 € *
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ARNOLDSCHE Art Publishers
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JUSTYNA KOEKE

-Princesses and Saints

Nils Büttner / Sonja Eismann / Änne Söll

Justyna Koeke transforms children’s fantasies into wearable sculptures, fashion shows into performances. As a child, the artist, together with her sister, painted princesses and saints over and again, which she now carries over into reality as a collection of brilliantly coloured outfits full of whimsical details. The drawings are transposed as closely as possible, as if they were designs by renowned fashion designers. Today, the costumes come alive on the bodies of ladies of advancing years – for example, at the fashion shows for the Berlin Alternative Fashion Week or during the iconic construction of the new City Library in Stuttgart. A cosmos as humorous as it is surreal, in which childhood and fantasy effortlessly transcend the traditional boundaries of age.

The staged photographs before the sterile pool or the futuristic lift of an upscale senior citizens’ home neverthe- less raise questions: for example, on the relationship of age and youth in our society. Or on the subjective sensibility of age that has long since not always been in step with the social stereotypes of our time.

The publication, conceived by the communication designer Demian Bern together with the artist, presents the entire spectrum of the project over 152 pages. Beginning with an extensive photo gallery, the childlike innocent drawings from the late 1970s and early 1980s are introduced. Their counterpart is found at the end of the book, in photo- graphs of the models with fantasy costumes of their own choosing. In between, the art project unfolds before the reader in the reflection of images and texts by renowned photographers and authors.

The project of the Polish artist Justyna Koeke, which alternates between sculpture, performance and plays on the fashion world, combines artisanal virtuosity with a mature sense of the whimsical and humorous: an approach as exciting as it is diverse on the relationship between childhood dreams and the reality of age, in which unresolved issues of an increasingly aging society continue to resonate.

With essays by Prof Dr Nils Büttner (Academy of Fine Arts, Stuttgart/DE), Sonja Eismann (Missy Magazine) and Prof Dr Änne Söll (Ruhr-University Bochum/DE) and photographs by Nadine Bracht, David Spaeth, Michael Wittig and Daniela Wolf
 
With photos by David Spaeth

Posted 10 July 2016

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“It takes all sorts to make a world”, Koeke is humorously playing a serious play on femininity, role stereotyping, power woman, in short with gender issues. Textiles, increasingly developing into plastics and synthetic materials within the last years, hook up as Koeke’s medium with the colourful costumes of the opera where her father worked as a musician, the typical Polish adornment of folkloric costumes and her and her sisters’ childhood drawings. The text by Nils Büttner clearly explains Koeke’s development elucidating the chosen content on the basis of Nietzsche’s Zarathustra in the field of tensions between man and woman. “In their performative vivification, Justyna Koeke’s sculptures play with visual and believe systems, with constrains and possibilities of being society.”

The website BAFW said: “Justyna Koeke lives and works in Ludwigsburg/Stuttgart and Krakow. Her work as an artist and curator resides at the intersection between performance, fashion, and sculpture. She creates handmade textile, wearable sculptures and uses them for performances in different contexts, such as in galleries and public space. Disguise is used as a form of artistic communication with society, the body as a carrier of artistic content. Justyna Koeke presented her latest collection “Princesses and Saints” at the Berliner Alternative Fashion Week BAFW in March 2016. “

The text Unrestrained Exaggeration: Artistic Hyper-Visibility as Radical Fashion Agency defines concepts like mannequin, runway, doll, model, aesthetics of age appropriate and fashion.

These tailored fantasies are brought to life on the bodies of ladies of advanced years. The publication presents the entire project: from the child-like naive drawings, via photographs of the dressed-up models before the sterile backdrop of their retirement home, to fun-loving fashion shows – an equally humorous and critical approach to the correlation of childhood dreams and the reality of getting older, in which the unsolved issues of an increasingly ageing society invariably resonate.

And all of that with childish joy!

Angela van der Burght

Page from the book Ustyna Koeke – Princesses And Saints 

Page from the book Ustyna Koeke – Princesses And Saints 

Page from the book Ustyna Koeke – Princesses And Saints 

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