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Robe du soir en dentelle Leavers, 1956. Un modèle semblable a été porté par Audrey Hepburn dans le film Funny Face (Drôle de frimousse) de Stanley Donen en 1957 © Collection Dominique Sirop, Paris - Photo Luc Castel
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Hubert De Givenchy
15/6/2017-31/12/2017
As part of its 2017 cultural programme, the Museum of Lace and Fashion unveils the work of Hubert de Givenchy through 70 outts sourced from prestigious private wardrobes, the archives of the House of Givenchy and the collections of museums across Europe, including the large Givenchy collection held by the Museum of Lace and Fashion.
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Posted 21 March 2017
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The exhibition, presented under the artistic direction of Mr Hubert de Givenchy himself, exposes the fashion designer’s career and accents the notable encounters that have punctuated his life and shaped his internationally renowned work.
From the stir caused by his first collection in 1952 when he launched his separates as well as the famous white shirting blouse with sleeve ounces trimmed in black embroidery, known as the “Bettina blouse”, to the final display cases dedicated to sumptuous wedding dresses, this is a thematic pathway along which we are guided by the couturier's unerring eye, to reveal his creative world.
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Robe fourreau du soir en velours émeraude, ornée d’un corsage brodé de cuir rouge clouté et découpé en forme de flammes réalisé par l’atelier Lesage, 1989 © Collection Cité de la dentelle et de la mode - Photo Luc Castel
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A journey through the exhibition
The costumes are unveiled against a simple and elegant decor, consisting of large display cases in tones varying between white, grey and black. The absence of glass offers proximity between the work and the visitor's eye.
A muffled floor covering clearly delimits the spaces and adds to the sophisticated atmosphere of the room. The mirrors that enhance a number of the display cases throw back reflections of the glittering dresses, multiplying perspectives and viewpoints.
Small alcoves are installed between the displays to offer other readings on the work of Givenchy, whilst inviting the public to interact with the environment. A first space devoted to samples of haute couture fabric precedes a second area dedicated to Hubert de Givenchy and the actress Audrey Hepburn, through projected images. Next, two alcoves present the Givenchy perfumes, among them the famous fragrance "l'Interdit", launched in 1957 and embodied by Givenchy's muse and loyal friend, Audrey Hepburn.
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Ensemble du soir composé d'une veste et d'un pantalon en brocart lamé, brodé de tresses d'or et d'argent, de feuilles métalliques et perles, hiver 1990 © Givenchy - Photo Luc Castel
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Robe du soir et étole en satin de soie charmeuse, brodée à la taille de plumes et feuilles en rhodoïd, nacre, perles et semis de pierres cristal par la maison Vermont, été 1989 © Collection Cité de la dentelle et de la mode, Photo Luc Castel
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Hubert de Givenchy's passion for exceptional textiles is interwoven throughout the visitor pathway and is illustrated by his collaborations with the greatest artisans of fashion, including the embroiderers Lesage and Vermont and fabric manufacturers like Abraham or Beuclère. Thus, in the same display case, we show a jacket in synthetic reptile standing proudly next to its neighbour in genuine snakeskin. Fur is also present, but used in an oeat fashion on a sailor tee worn with trousers. Lace is not neglected, present on three evening dresses in a display case given over entirely to them. In an adjacent display case, the exhibition-goer will discover the sophistication of the art of draping associated with virtuoso embroidered creations.
To understand the work of the famous couturier is also to take an interest in the history of the significant encounters that marked his life and shaped his work.
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Hubert de Givenchy dressed an elegant and loyal cosmopolitan clientele: here we nd dresses worn by Jacqueline Kennedy and other wealthy clients (the Duchess of Windsor, Countess Isabelle de Borchgrave d'Altena, the Duchess of Cadaval, the Marquesa de Llanzol and many more besides). But we focus in particular on an exceptional encounter, that between Hubert de Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn, which led to the construction of Audrey Hepburn's unique style both on- and film-screen. A number of display cases are dedicated to her, where the visitor will discover the dresses worn by the star in two of her greatest lm roles, in Breakfast at Tianys (1961) and How to steal a million (1966), known in France by the titles Diamants sur canapé and Comment voler un million de dollars. These dresses are displayed alongside scenes from the films.
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Robe du soir et étole en satin de soie charmeuse, brodée à la taille de plumes et feuilles en rhodoïd, nacre, perles et semis de pierres cristal par la maison Vermont, été 1989 © Collection Cité de la dentelle et de la mode, Photo Luc Castel
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Ensemble du soir - robe en satin et manteau en cachemire et zibeline, Hubert de Givenchy, hiver 1991 © Skrebneski photography
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The creative world of the couturier is rich and inspired by multiple sources. These include artists dear to the couturier such as Joan Miró, Nicolas de Staël, Robert Delauney and Mark Rothko, but also nature in the luxuriance of its colour and, finally, the opulent glamour of the gilded bronzes of eighteenth century cabinetmaking. The visitor pathway continues with two display cases devoted to luxurious evening dresses the colour of Indian ink, in which renement of detailing is allied with ultra-sophistication of cut. True to the tempo of the fashion show, the journey ends with majestic wedding dresses in which diaphanous laces and tulles take the limelight. Finally, the exhibition-goer is greeted at the end of the pathway with a collection of hats, hanging on the wall like so many hunting trophies.
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