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Elsa Schiaparelli, chapeau-chaussure, hiver 1937-1938 Feutre noir Collection Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris © Eric Emo / Galliera / Roger-Viollet 

MUSÉE DE LA MODE DE LA VILLE DE PARIS

Fashion Mix
9/12/2014-31/5/2015
 
From Charles Frederick Worth to Azzedine Alaïa, from Mariano Fortuny to Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto, or from Cristóbal Balenciaga to Raf Simons... many foreign designers and artistic directors have radically transformed French fashion and richly contributed to its history. The FASHION MIX exhibition is a tribute to French know-how whose prestige Russian, Armenian, Italian, Spanish, Japanese, Belgian designers have helped put on the map.

Posted 13 November 2014

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Mingling personal trajectories with fashion history, FASHION MIX, curated by Olivier Saillard, Director of Palais Galliera, musée de la mode de la Ville de Paris, emphasises the fundamental contribution made by foreign artists to French haute couture and ready-to-wear while presenting an alternative history of immigration, that of men and women, designers and craftsmen who have raised Paris to the status of international fashion capital.

Cristóbal Balenciaga, ensemble du soir cape et robe, A/H 1962-1963 Taffetas changeant, don de Monsieur Herbert Georges Bigelow Collection Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris © Eric Emo / Galliera / Roger-Viollet
11/ Popy Moreni, robe, 1988-1989 Velours noir, applications multicolores 

The FASHION MIX exhibition

In the fashion industry the concepts of ‘French know-how’ and ‘Made in France’ have been legendary and celebrated the world over since the mid-19th century. However, French fashion has often been the brainchild of foreign designers: pushed into exile for political reasons or emigrating out of artistic choice, attracted not only to the capital of culture and style but also to the country of all freedoms, these designers have been instrumental in establishing the reputation of French haute couture and ready-to-wear as well as that of Paris as world capital of fashion.

Mariano Fortuny, tea-gown, vers 1912 Velours de soie rouge imprimé or, perles de verre rouges Collection Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris © R. Briant et L. Degrâces / Galliera / Roger-Viollet 

Vivienne Westwood -Robe Fragonard © Roger-Viollet HD

Worth et Bobergh, robe de ville, vers 1869 Faille de soie, toile de coton enduite Collection Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris © Eric Emo / Galliera / Roger-Viollet 

Charles Frederick Worth photographié par Charles Reutlinger, Inde 1885
© Charles Reutlinger / Galliera / Roger-Viollet

But fashion also involves very specific techniques. The exhibition brings to the fore some of the old crafts which are inextricably linked to immigration - Russian embroidery workshops in the 1920s or, more recently, Armenian shoe and shoelace makers. The exhibition displays about one hundred emblematic pieces - dresses, coats, hats, accessories -, selected mainly from the Palais Galliera collections.
Personal migratory trajectories and know-how are backed with private as well as public archives – foundation deeds of fashion houses, naturalisation files, archives from the OFPRA (French office for the protection of refugees and stateless persons), extracts from radio and TV interviews.

The exhibition concept

Launched in 1858 by a few figureheads like English haute couture founder, Charles Frederick Worth, fashion is today a creative whirlwind of designers coming from all over the planet. More than ever Paris remains one of the great fashion capitals and an essential launchpad for individual careers. With these designers’ most famous creations marking out their own migratory trajectory, the exhibition is articulated around two time continuums that closely reflect this history: one concentrates on those foreigners who first set up fashion houses in Paris, the other on the emergence of a new generation of designers who came from all over the world to present their creations on the French capital’s catwalks.

Article consacré à la participation de la maison Redfern à l'Exposition universelle de Saint-Louis (Etats-Unis), L'Art et la Mode, n°23, 3 juin 1904
© Editions Jalou 1904

Brevet déposé par Mariano Fortuny y Madrazo (1871-1949 ) le 10 juin 1909 à l’Office national de la propriété intellectuelle, pour un "Genre d'étoffe plissée ondulée".
Source : Archives INPI

Duplicata du certificat de réfugié de Félix Youssoupoff émis le 9 mars 1955
© Archives Ofpra

Antonio Castillo (1908- 1984), chez Lanvin. cliché BHVP  Parisienne de Photographie - Photographie Seeberger Frères © BnF

From the mid-19th Century to the 1960s

Cristóbal Balenciaga, ensemble robe et cape, haute couture P/E 1962. Faille de soie imprimée Collection Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris © Spassky Fischer 

The arrival in France of foreign designers from the 19th Century and the opening of fashion houses mark the start of a journey focusing on major personalities who uniquely contributed to French creation: Charles Frederick Worth and the English School, Mariano Fortuny and his experiments with textiles, Elsa Schiaparelli and the Italians, Cristóbal Balenciaga and the Spanish School. Contemporary designs by artists such as John Galliano, Phoebe Philo, Alexander McQueen, Sybilla, Popy Moreni and Riccardo Tisci act as counterpoints to those predecessors. This part of the exhibition also dwells on individuals whose fate got embroiled in wider political, cultural upheavals: White Russians in exile after the Revolution (Kitmir and Irfé fashion houses), Spaniards fleeing the Civil War, Armenian refugees (Ara Frenkian).

Martin Margiela, ensemble body troué et jupe rideau, A/H 1990. Collection Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris © Spassky Fischer 

Elsa Schiaparelli, manteau du soir ayant appartenu à Elsa Schiaparelli, haute couture A/H 1949 Collection Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris © Spassky Fischer 

Yohji Yamamoto, Cape "Pierrot", collection "Hollywood", A/H 1997 Collection Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris © Spassky Fischer 

From the late 1970s to the present day

The abundance of designs, filmed interviews and press articles testifies to the sheer creativity of the following decades. In the late 1970s and early 1980s a radical break occurs with the emergence of the Japanese school:
another cycle begins with a new generation of designers ranging from Kenzo and Issey Miyake to Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Tokio Kumagaï and Junya Watanabe. In the spirit of this Japanese ‘Revolution’, Belgian artists such as Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons, Dries Van Noten, A.F. Vandevorst, Olivier Theyskens and Jurgi Persoons adopt Paris as their own fashion capital from the 1980s onwards.

Popy Moreni, robe, 1988-1989 Velours noir, applications multicolores 

This second part of the exhibition focuses on the speeding up of exchanges so typical of our modern societies with the quick development of fashion shows and capitals as well as the appearance on the Paris scene of designers of all origins, rather than on a single, geographically determined school. A few of them were indeed to become pivotal in some of the most prestigious French fashion houses, amongst whom Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel, Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton or Azzedine Alaïa who set up his own designer label. In the current creative exuberance a more conceptual trend is however noticeable, whose main representatives are Helmut Lang from Austria, Kostas Murkudis from Germany, Viktor & Rolf and Iris van Herpen from the Netherlands, Israeli-American designer Alber Elbaz, Patrick Kelly from the US, Rabih Kayrouz from Lebanon and Manish Arora from India.
 
Catalogue de l’exposition
Fashion Mix
Édition Flammarion,
192 pages, hardback
€35
 
Opening times
Tue-Fr: 10am-5.30pm
Sat-Sun: 10am-7pm
Last admissions 45 minutes before closing time.
 
THE PALAIS GALLIERA IS TEMPORALY CLOSED
Reopening on March 2015 with the next exhibition : "Jeanne Lanvin".
Before the reopening, find our collections at the Palais de la Porte Dorée, Musée de l’histoire de l’immigration public establishment (Paris 12e)?from December 9th 2014 with the "Fashion Mix " exhibition.

Issey Miyake, robe longue, P/E 1986 Soie artificielle plissée Collection Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris © Eric Emo / Galliera / Roger-Viollet 

Guided exhibition tours
Available at weekends and during school holidays.
Workshops on the theme of fashion aimed at children
These workshops take place during school holidays and are open to the whole family.

As complements to the thematics developed in the exhibition they explore practices in fashion design, fashion photography and tailoring.
Workshops start at 3pm.
Dates:
Saturdays: 18, 25 October - 1 November - 20, 27 December - 3 January - 7, 14, 21, 28 February - 7 March - 11, 18, 25 April; Wednesdays: 22, 29 October - 11, 18, 25 February - 4 March - 8, 15, 22, 29 April - 6 May
Information: histoire-immigration.fr
Booking : reservation@histoire-immigration.fr
Entrance fees
Exhibition: €6 - Show: €12-€9 - Workshop: €6 - Guided tour: €10
Special rates for groups over 20 people.

PALAIS DE L A PORTE DORÉE
Fashion Mix is a creation of the Palais de la Porte Dorée, Musée de l’histoire de l’immigration public establishment, with the collaboration of Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris. The exhibition is based upon Palais Galliera’s own collections and documents gathered by the Musée de l’histoire de l’immigration.

Curator:
Olivier Saillard, Director of Palais Galliera
Associate curators:
Musée de l’histoire de l’immigration
Aude Pessey-Lux, Director of the Musée de l’histoire de l’immigration;
Isabelle Renard, Head of the Contemporary Art Collection, with the assistance of Elsa Rigaux
Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris
Alexandre Samson, Olivier Saillard’s
assistant; Corinne Dom, Museum Registrar
  
Palais Galliera
Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris
10, avenue Pierre-Ier-de-Serbie - 75116 Paris
T +33 (0)1 56 52 86 08

Musée de l’histoire de l’imigration
Musée de l’histoire de l’immigration - Palais de la Porte Dorée
293, avenue Daumesnil - 75012 Paris
T +33 (0)1 53 59 58 70

PALAIS DE L A PORTE DORÉE
Palais de la Porte Dorée
293 Avenue Daumesnil
F-75012 Paris, France ‎
+33 (0)1-53595860 
palais-portedoree.fr
 

Elsa Schiaparelli, robe du soir, P/E 1937 Crêpe imprimé noir et blanc motif de papillon Collection Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris © Stéphane Piera / Galliera / Roger-Viollet 

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