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Regina Relang, 1952
MünchnerStadtmuseum, Sammlung Fotografie, ArchivRelang
La modella, fotografata ai Musei Capitolini davanti alla mano della statua monumentale di Costantino I, indossa un modello delle Sorelle Fontana (pubblicata sulla rivista La Donna)
Modello Sorelle Fontana
accanto alla mano della statua colossale di Costantino nel cortile dei Musei capitolini a Roma, 1952.
Foto Regina Relang.
Courtesy Münchner Stadtmuseum, Sammlung Fotografie, Archiv Relang.
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BELLISSIMA
Italy and High Fashion 1945-1968
Bellissima
2/12/2014-3/5/2015
MAXXI National Museum of XXI Century Arts
Italian culture at a time of extraordinary creativity in cinema, art, architecture, theater, and photography. The exhibition will recreate the alluring atmosphere of Italian high fashion at a time when designers like EmilioSchuberth, Sorelle Fontana, Germana Marucelli, Mila Schön, Valentino, Simonetta, Roberto Capucci, Fernanda
Gattinoni, Fendi, Renato Balestra, Biki, Irene Galitzine, Emilio Pucci, Fausto Sarli and many more were making important contributions to the image of Italy around the world.
The main partner of this event is Bulgari, the most famous Italian jewelry house in the world and a symbol of style and creativity for the past 130 years.
A richly illustrated book, in collaboration with Altaroma, pays tribute to the cities and personalities that helped write one of the most beautiful chapters in the history of Italian life and culture. The book is published by Electa.
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Posted 4 January 2015
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A display installation by the architect Maria Giuseppina Grasso Cannizzo will highlight the relationship between the worlds of art and cinema. Clothing, accessories, and jewelry will be shown alongside important works of art.
The backdrop for this visual extravaganza is Rome - the star of the Jubilee in 1950 and of the Olympics in 1960, the city of cinema and Hollywood divas, of the Via Veneto and the Dolce Vita - as well as cityscapes of Turin, Milan, Florence, Venice and Naples.
Bellissima is a 1951 film directed by Luchino Visconti in which Anna Magnani starred in one of her most intense roles: she played the part of a mother who would stop at nothing to get her daughter to act in a movie made in Cinecittà. But “bellissima” is also a word that indicates female beauty around the world. It is the Italian way of life: a spectacular kaleidoscope of soft, relaxed, disorganized atmospheres, of sex and dolce far niente.
1945-1968 is the period that stretches from the reconstruction of a country buried under the ruins of war, and the radical undermining of the value system that had been built up in those years. It was the moment when fashion was articulated between individual traits and group qualities, offering itself as a platform on which cinema, art, literature and design were intertwined in a remarkable network of collaboration that would denote the outlines of the creative workshop that Italy continues
to be today.
Bellissima: Italy and High Fashion 1945-1968 is not a history of high fashion, but, rather, the attempt to reassemble, through the lens of today, the complex and ever-changing image of Italian fashion, in a choral account made up of many exemplary stories that are the very fabric that will give shape and consistency to the great success of the “made in Italy” label. Bellissima stages a selection of outfits by a series of authors to whom is due the very identity of Italian fashion, revealing its themes and distinguishing features. From the spectacular creations that lit up the grand balls and foyers of the theaters, accompanied by the glittering expressions of the finest jewelry, to the restrained elegance of the cocktail dresses; from the rigorous black and white graphic look, to the chromatic explosion – suspended between hallucinogenic
Orientalism and spatial Pop Art – so typical of the 1960s; from the inventions made for the actresses of the so-called Hollywood on the Tiber, to the results of the sophisticated formal research that was the fruit of the intense collaboration between couturiers and artists. Showcased alongside the outfits are the accessories, as well – costume jewelry, shoes, hats, handbags –, which have promoted our fine craftsmanship around the world. The relationship between Italian high fashion and
the textile industries, in its most successful expressions as daywear, becomes a way
to understand the recent developments in fashion. Thus acknowledging our authors of high fashion as having cast light on the Italian model of that luxury ready-to-wear that is still so unique and unrepeatable.
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Curated by Maria Luisa Frisa, Anna Mattirolo, Stefano Tonchi
Bellissima stages a selection of 80 outfits by designers that define the very identity of Italian fashion, revealing its themes and distinguishing features. From the spectacular creations that lit up the grand balls and foyers of the theaters, accompanied by the glittering expressions of the finest jewelry, to the restrained elegance of the
cocktail dresses; from the rigorous black and white graphic look, to the chromatic explosion – suspended between hallucinogenic Orientalism and spatial Pop Art – so typical of the 1960s; from the inventions made for the actresses of the so-called Hollywood on the Tiber (with outfits specially designed for Ava Gardner, Anita
Ekberg, Ingrid Bergman, Lana Turner, Kim Novak, Anna Magnani), to the results of the sophisticated formal research that was the fruit of the intense collaboration between couturiers and artists. And then the daywear, suits and coats that describe the luxury that was expressed during the day.
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Showcased alongside the outfits – which seem to come to life on La Rosa mannequins - are the accessories, as well – costume jewelry, shoes, hats, handbags –, which have promoted our fine craftsmanship around the world (among which Coppola e Toppo, Ferragamo, Fragiacomo, Gucci, Roberta da Camerino).
Bulgari will exhibit a selection of one of a kind jewels highly representative of a key period for the Brand, rich in experimentation and style innovation.
Photographs by Pasquale De Antonis, Federico Garolla and Ugo Mulas, as well as paintings, tapestries, ceramics and sculptures by Carla Accardi, Getulio Alviani Alberto Biasi, Alberto Burri, Massimo Campigli, Giuseppe Capogrossi, Lucio Fontana, Paolo Scheggi will also be on view, many of which thanks to the
collaboration of the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna,.
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BULGARI 03460L Ekberg Connery Marshall
Anita Ekberg, Sean Connery and Zena Marshall at 'Dr No' film screening after party
Various Stars
Photo by Harry Myers / Rex Features
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Venezia, 1966
Fotografie Ugo Mulas © Eredi Ugo Mulas.
Tutti i diritti riservati. Courtesy Archivio Ugo Mulas, Milano – Galleria
Lia Rumma, Milano/Napoli”
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MAXXI will bring to life the atmospheres of the period when Paolo Scheggi designed the atelier of Germana Marucelli, with whom he also collaborated for some of her collections; when the Obelisco gallery, animated by Irene Brin, was a point of reference for photographers, couturiers, creatives, and Palma Bucarelli, the legendary director of GNAM (some of her outfits have been loaned by Museo Boncompagni Ludovisi for this occasion), vivified the cultural life of the capital; when Mila Schön collaborated with Ugo Mulas, and was inspired by Fontana’s cuts, and when Roberto Capucci’s imagination was sparked by Burri’s cretti.
The dialogue with contemporary art is enhanced by vb74, a performance by Vanessa Beecroft designed specifically for this event. In vb74 a group of women stages a rituality related to the question of being and appearing.
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Modello Fabiani, foto Fortunato Scrimali, in Bellezza, a. XIV, n. 3, marzo 1954
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The book published by Electa completes and adds to the exhibition project: 464 pages and over 500 images, available both in Italian and in English, portraying the landscape of high Italian fashion in the postwar period as a polycentric phenomenon, a visual atlas, a tribute to the cities that contributed to one of the most beautiful pages of Italy’s history of the costume. The book recounts both Italy’s cities and its ladies of style like Marella Agnelli, Gioia Marchi Falck, Consuelo Crespi, Irene Brin and Palma Bucarelli; Milan and the Scala, Biki and Maria Callas, Germana Marucelli; high society Venice and the Naples of men’s tailoring and the gala events in its palazzi; Florence and the fashion events held at Palazzo Pitti; and, of course, Rome, the Dolce Vita and Hollywood on the Tiber.
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Controcanto is a very rich program that will accompany the exhibition and develop many of its themes by way of cinema, photography, lessons, talks involving some of the biggest names in fashion and a number of new talents, as well as designers and critics, experts and professionals. It all starts on December 13 with a cycle of six lessons on the history of fashion from the early twentieth century to today. In January a series of films will be shown, including Elio Petri’s The 10th Victim and Federico Fellini’s 8 1/2, and a talk will be given by Oscar-winner Piero Tosi. Also in January, MAXXI will host five meetings with some of the great names that have contributed
to the dissemination of Italian style: Roberto Capucci, Frida Giannini (Gucci), Antonio Marras, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli (Valentino), photographer Giovanni Gastel. There will also be presentations of fashion books, and in March, Moustafà Sabbagh will teach a masterclass on fashion photography.
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Maria Antonelli, Renato Balestra, Rocco Barocco, Delia Biagiotti Soldaini, Biki, Aurora Battilocchi, Sorelle Botti, Brunettini, Bulgari, Roberto Capucci, Caraceni, Carosa - Giovanna Caracciolo Ginetti, Clemente Cartoni, Cavallera, Clara Centinaro, Coppola e Toppo, Gigliola Curiel, Alberto Dal Cò, Patrick De Barentzen, Enzo,
Alberto Fabiani, Fendi, Fercioni, Salvatore Ferragamo, Sorelle Fontana, Federico Forquet, Fragiacomo, Irene Galitzine, Gallia e Peter, Fernanda Gattinoni, Gucci, Cesare Guidi, Heinz Riva, Pino Lancetti, André Laug, Laudadio, Lucarelli, Luciani, Germana Marucelli, Mila Schön, Mingolini - Gugenheim, Ognibene - Zendman,
Pirovano, Emilio Pucci, Lorenzo Riva, Roberta di Camerino, Sanlorenzo, Fausto Sarli, Emilio Schuberth, Simonetta, Tiziani, Valentino, Jole Veneziani.
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Honorary Committee
Giorgio Armani, Jean-Christophe Babin, Patrizio Bertelli, Lavinia Biagiotti Cigna, Mario Boselli, Roberto Capucci, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Diego Della Valle, Ferruccio Ferragamo, Giusi Ferré, Nicoletta Fiorucci, Micol Fontana, Frida Giannini, Karl Lagerfeld, Rosita Missoni, Jonathan Newhouse, Mirella Petteni Haggiag, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Miuccia Prada, Laudomia Pucci, Stefano Ricci, Franca Sozzani, Beatrice Trussardi, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Donatella Versace, Anna Wintour, Anna Zegna.
Scientific Committee
Gloria Bianchino, CSAC Università di Parma; Caterina Chiarelli, Galleria del Costume di Palazzo Pitti, Firenze; Doretta Davanzo Poli, fashion and textile historian, Venezia; Kaat Debo, MOMU Antwerp; Akiko Fukai, Kyoto Costume Institute; Bonizza Giordano Aragno, Italian fashion historian, Roma; Sofia Gnoli, Università degli Studi di Roma “La Sapienza”; Harold Koda, The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York; Maria Stella Margozzi, Museo Boncompagni Ludovisi, Roma; Marina Messina, Palazzo Morando | Costume Moda Immagine, Milano; Enrica Morini, Libera Università di Lingue e Comunicazione IULM, Milano; Alistair O'Neill, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, London; Adelheid Rasche, Kostümbibliothek Staatliche Museum, Berlin; Sonnet Stanfill, Victoria & Albert Museum, London; Valerie Steele, The Museum at FIT, New York.
Main partner Bulgari
In collaboration with Altaroma | technical partner La Rosa | hotel partner Dom, Rome | thanks to Yoox.com
With the technical contribution of Cinecittà Istituto Luce, Rai Teche, Rufa Rome University of Fine Art
For the films in the exhibition thanks to Mediaset, Rai Cinema, Cinecittà Istituto Luce, Surf Film, Videodue
Controcanto was realized with the support of Altaroma
For the fashion photography masterclass thanks to Dgtales Racconti Digitali, L’Oreal Divisione Prodotti
Professionali, Accademia, ID
For the performance vb74 by Vanessa Beecroft thanks to Grafiche Antiga, Giovanni Bonotto, L’Oreal Divisione
Prodotti Professionali, Prada
Media partner Sky Arte HD, Edizioni Condé Nast, Pizza
©MAXXI National Museum of XXI Century Arts
via Guido Reni, 4 A, I-00196 Roma
+39 06 3201954
info@fondazionemaxxi.it
http://www.fondazionemaxxi.it
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"Snake" bracelet-watch in gold with red and green enamel and diamonds,1965.
Bulgari Heritage Collection
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Click here to download the file "BELLISSIMA_Booklet.pdf".
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