English, turn of the 18th century
As the 17th century wore on, the type of heels worn by men expressed two distinctly different forms of masculinity. Leather covered heels suggested refinement, while stacked leather connoted action and were commonly found on men’s riding boots. This ‘thigh’ boot features a high stacked leather heel and was clearly designed to be worn in harsh riding conditions such as battle. The use of hard thick, ‘jack’ leather provided a great deal of protection while the stacked leather heel would have kept the rider’s foot in the stirrup.
Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum
Photo credit: Image © 2015 Bata Shoe Museum,
Toronto, Canada (photo: Ron Wood)

Men’s mules, English, c. 1690-1715
Men and women wore distinctly different heels by the end of the 17th century. Whether stacked or leather covered, men’s heels were typically broad and sturdy.
Women’s heels, in contrast, were most often leathercovered and very narrow. This pair of men’s mules features high flared heels in keeping with turn of the
18th century men’s fashion and would have been worn at home as part of a gentleman’s undress.
Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum.
Photo credit: Image © 2015 Bata Shoe Museum,
Toronto, Canada (photo: Ron Wood)

Italian, first half of the 18th century
In addition to being associated with effeminacy, in the early years of the 18th century, the high heel was criticized as being an affront to God. Heels artificially increased height and therefore went against divine design. This pair of red silk shoes featuring appropriately low red heels is said to be papal.
Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum
Photo credit: Image © 2015 Bata Shoe Museum,
Toronto, Canada (photo: Ron Wood)

English, 1760-1780
Despite the loss of the high heel in men’s fashion in the 18th century, low heeled shoes of brocaded silk ornamented with glittering buckles or secured with large bows continued to be acceptable for court dress. The occasional man’s heel even continued to be highlighted by a flash of colour such as this shoe which features a pink leather-covered heel.
Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum
Photo credit: Image © 2015 Bata Shoe Museum,
Toronto, Canada (photo: Ron Wood)

Possibly Hungarian, early 19th century
Early 19th century pantaloons were designed to create a long lean line. This was achieved by a strap at the hem that could be wrapped under the foot if the pantaloons were to be worn inside a boot, or if worn full length then slipped under the sole of heeled footwear. The style was highly recommended to men of short stature as it allowed them to wear height augmenting heels without criticism. This Hessian boot with its little heel and extravagant embellishment would have been perfect for pantaloons.
Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum
Photo credit: Image © 2015 Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto,
Canada (photo: Ron Wood)

German, mid-19th century
Nineteenth century men’s boots were divided between sleek and sturdy, privileged and practical. Men of means wore refined and polished boots linked to the long tradition of equestrianism while the boots worn by labourers were rough and utilitarian; designed for durability. This pair of German boots are very similar to those worn on the Canadian and American frontiers. Indeed many new immigrants headed West after arriving in North America bringing with them their wellmade and hardworking boots.
Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum
Photo credit: Image © 2015 Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto,
Canada (photo: Ron Wood)

English, early 1960s. Worn by John Lennon.
When the Beatles became popular in the early 1960s, they stood at the forefront of the Peacock Revolution, a movement in men’s fashion to reclaim the privilege of extravagant dress. Their signature look included “mop-top” hair, tight fitting suits, and the now famous “Beatle boot.” These boots were typical Chelsea boots popular in men’s fashion since the 19th century with the exception that they featured a significantly higher heels borrowed from male flamenco dancers. This boot was worn by John Lennon.
Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum
Photo credit: Image © 2015 Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto, (photo: Ron Wood)

American, mid-20th century
The heeled biker boot, or engineer’s boot, became popular with bikers after World War II. Groups of young veterans began to gather together drawn by their mutual love of motorcycles and by the late 1940s biker clubs were being established throughout
North America. The biker offered an updated version of the cowboy and his sartorial codes, likewise, spoke to unfettered freedom.
Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum
Photo credit: Image © 2015 Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto,
Canada (photo: Ron Wood)

French, turn of the 20th century
At the turn of the 20th century, slightly higher heels came back into fashion for men. At two inches, ‘military heels’ were considered high but their blocky shape and stacked leather construction identified them as masculine. Despite the use of the term ‘military heel,’ however, attempts to reinstate an elevating heel into men’s fashion failed.
Collection of the Bata Shoe Museum
Photo credit: Image © 2015 Bata Shoe
Museum, Toronto, Canada (photo: Ron Wood)